When in Vientienne get the bus out!
Well, I knew it wasn't a great place cuz Steve and Sarah emailed me to let me know, but hey always give people and places the benefit of the doubt.....they were right. It was a hole. The best part about it was the Beerlaos factory where they brew Beerlaos. The company started making beer in 1973, and before that Laos imported all it's beer. They are going for ISO 9001 this year, and sell about 60,000 cases of beer a day....12 beer in a case, I'll let you do the math.
Vientienne is just buildings, restaurants, and bars....no real character as such. It was also very bland, all the buildings appeared washed out and colourless. We did find a great wee Indian restaurant that did awesome samosa's 2 for 5000 kip. Thats about 50 cents, or 25 p. Good food!
The Bus
So I booked a bus to get me out of Vientienne to Hanoi, it cost 200,000 or 20 us dollars, and was a 24 hour bus ride. Not cheap, and it was a complete fiasco. They said they'd be there at 6pm, but showed up early. They then procedeed to squeeze 8 people into a 7 person people carrier. Then they pulled us out, and put us on another mini bus, then took some of us out and put us back in the original mini bus. Then when we got to the bus station to catch the big bus, they told me to put "Gigantor" (the affectionate name given to my backpack by Jake) on the bus with me. It's huge and didn't make any sense to me, but whatever. Then they proceeded to pile up all our rucksacks in a section at the back of the bus where there used to be a few seats.
Then they started passing our luggage out one of the windows, including gigantor, and emptied the space where the seats used to be....much to our amusement and puzzlement. Next they stared bringing seats on the bus and hammering them into place. I was very confused....eventually around 8:00pm we left....phew. I pulled out my book and started to read, and the reading lights went out. So I got out my trusty flashlight (Thanks Brian and Theresa) and the lights went on...so I put my flashlight away, then they went out, so I took the flashlight out, and guess what they went on again....this was the story for an hour or so before I got fed up and tried to get some sleep.
I dozed for an hour or so and then tried reading again, eventually nodding off. I woke up as I was jolted out of my seat. We were going over a really bumpy road, and it was pitch black outside, it was almost midnight. The bus came to a stop and we appeared to be in the driveway of some farm. Everyone got out to get food, or use the toilet, except there wasn't any. It really was just someone's farmhouse. Except there were about 12 Vietnemese guys boarding our bus....and one of them had the pleasure of sitting beside me. We reversed out of the driveway and got back on the main road, and my friend started to doze. After a few minutes I detected a lovely odour, it was a combination of stale cigarette smoke, and sweat, and it was coming off of my friend. He was wearing a T shirt that was stained with food from various dinners over the last month is my guess. Probably a contributor to the lovely aroma he effused.
So this was bad, and I turned away from him towards the window to try and get away from his pungent aroma....when he decided to get cozy and turned in the same direction practically spooning me. Dude, I don't even know you're name and we're spooning on the first date? I normally don't even kiss on the first date!! So I tried to make as much space as possible and reduce body contact. Not in a happy place was I. He eventually shifted and managed to lodge his elbow in my spine. That was enough I took his arm and put it on his stomach, and after 2 minutes he happily replaced it back in between the vertibrae of my spine.
2 painful hours later we pulled up at a small restaurant around 2 in the morning. Most of were pretty hungry, and thirsty and need of the toilet. We walked in and saw a football match on, Champion's League and many spirits were lifted. Then we saw what was in the jars, and many spirits sunk. There were Gorrilla feet, A cobra, and a baby pigs head in jars on the counter of the kitchen. Hmmm. When she came around to ask if we wanted soup and noodles, only the brave ventured forth with a timid...yes. I wanted a can of 7 up, as it doesn't have caffeine, but they only had cola which would keep me up for the rest of the trip so I had a beer. Turns out it didn't really matter cuz we were staying here for 4 hours. Great.
So a couple of English girls we'd met in Chiang Mai were on the bus, Jess and Alice, so we played a couple of games of cards with some French Canadian boys we'd met and passed the hours munching on snacks, playing cards, and listening to tunes on my beloved little speakers....all very civil. Then we got on the bus around 6am and drove to the Vietnemese border where we had to get off and walk up to immigration, only to be herded like cattle and pushed prodded, bumped and bruised in the process of being processed as visitors. After all that we got out around 7:00 to get back on the bus. Nope they were taking all our luggage off the roof as we had to have it x rayed...so back again we went, then lugged our stuff back to get hefted onto the roof again.
The Puppies
We then had to walk 10 mins up the road for some reason before the bus could pick us up....and this is where I saw one of the worst things on this trip so far. A truck passed me, and I did a double take. It was full of cages, which in turn were full of puppies. They were crying, yelping, snarling barking, essentially making every dog noise possible, while some were just quietly sitting and looking up with the saddest eyes in the world. Some of the dogs were piled on top of each other, and just looked so miserable. Although I don't know for sure, I'm pretty sure they were on their way to be butchered for meat. I felt so awful. There was nothing in the world I could have done. Even if I bought them all with all the money I had for the rest of my trip what would I do with them? What about the next truck load. Man that was rough.
We stopped for lunch a few hours later and piled off the bus. When we were done lunch we went to go back on the bus, and they told us no....that bus. A public bus that was even more crowded and funkier smelling than the big bus. Not good. We hoped it was just a transitional bus to get us to our next one. Nope. We spent 6 hours of the most uncomfortable busride in the world hoping that we'd crash to put us out of our misery. Then I realised I'd left my travel towel, my beanie, my book and about 10,000 dong on the other bus. The trip just got even better....grrrr. At least smelly boy stayed on the original bus, (and probably is the proud new owner of my belongings) and we didn't have to stand, but we did have to watch our bus driver do his Michael Schumacher impression, passing everything in front of him with ridiculous blasts of his buses foghorn. We finally arrived in Hanoi, and watched in amazement as they pulled off 5 mopeds that had been strapped to the roof beside our luggage. 5 mopeds! I hated every minute of that bus ride. Hated it.





















Wisdom unleashed from the Peace Corp










































































